THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG
A truly multi-faceted breed
Welcome! We hope this is an important step in your journey to pick out the right puppy for you and your family. It’s important to understand the breed you’re interested in. We have some resources here that will help you decide if the German Shepherd Dog (GSD) is the right breed for you and, regardless of the breed you choose, give you some tips to help you get your puppy from a reputable breeder.
We also hope you will join the German Shepherd Dog Club of America (GSDCA) and participate in the many training and showing opportunities that exist as your puppy grows up.
Click here for additional links through the American Kennel Club website on choosing and raising puppies.
One of the best resources in finding a quality German Shepherd puppy is to contact the GSDCA Regional Club in your area.
Having decided to purchase a German Shepherd puppy, you should try to find the best representative available to you. The German Shepherd Dog Club of America hopes the following information and suggestions will result in a relationship that will be fulfilling to both you and the dog you choose.
The links in this section will help you interview prospective breeders, recognize unethical breeders, and find the puppy best suited to your home.
You will find information on where – and how – to begin. This site is chock-full of valuable information on the breed. Please bookmark it for future reference.
Many sources offer purebred German Shepherd puppies, but finding the best source takes time and study. Buying a puppy is a commitment that cannot be taken lightly. Hopefully by choosing the right puppy, you will be taking on a responsibility that will result in a healthy, well adjusted dog that will give you joy and happiness for many years.
Pet stores occasionally offer purebred German Shepherd puppies
Puppies in pet stores are mostly from puppy mills or the occasional backyard breeder who’s main objective is producing puppies for profit. Please be careful here as health problems may be common as the “for-profit” breeder does not select the best possible bloodlines that will be compatible for good health, longevity and good temperament.
What Should I Look for in a German Shepherd Puppy?
First, you should decide if you want a male or female. Males and females are similar in many respects but there are marked differences between the sexes that you should be aware of.
Males are larger and heavier (24-26 inches at the highest point of the shoulders and 65 to 90 lbs). Females are somewhat smaller and lighter in weight (22-24 inches in height at the top of the shoulders and 50-70 lbs).
Secondary sex characteristics should be pronounced for males and females, e.g. a male looks like a male with pronounced masculinity and a female should look feminine with more delicate features.
Females will also have a season twice a year. If you choose a female and do not wish to have puppies, then it is recommended that she be spayed. The differences in the sexes in puppies is not as pronounced as in the adult dogs.
Have some idea what you expect from your new addition so you can inform the breeder. Let him/her know if you want a companion, show dog, or a competitive performance dog.
No matter what the function you desire in your puppy, all puppies in the litter will have the same bloodlines. Most well-bred litters from ethical breeders are bred to emphasize the health, character, and trainability of every puppy in the litter.
In the search for your puppy, you want to observe the puppies together at first. A German Shepherd puppy should have, first and foremost, a good temperament. They should be inquisitive, outgoing, and unafraid in his advances towards everything and everybody. They will also demand and exhibit affection without inhibition.
Many times puppies will single out one of the litter to pick on. This does not mean this puppy is defective in any way. Take this puppy aside and he will usually assert himself when he is away from his littermates.
Shy Puppies
Do not select a shy puppy. You do not want a puppy who is afraid of you, or runs and hides. This type of puppy is afraid of people, places and things. Do not be sympathetic; if you owned one, you would be embarrassed by its lack of true German Shepherd character. The definition of the ideal German Shepherd temperament can be found here – The German Shepherd Dog Standard.
What color should you choose? Color is not a major consideration in choosing a good German Shepherd, as long as the pigment is good. White is an undesirable color and is a disqualification in the AKC conformation ring.
Most companion puppies are sold at 8 to 16 weeks of age. Puppies generally are not ready to go to a new home under 8 weeks of age.
Conclusion
What guarantees you can expect with your new puppy are between you and the seller. If there are hip and elbow guarantees implied in the verbal contract, make sure they are also included in the written contract.
Trait |
Puppy Mill | Commercial Breeder | Backyard Breeder | Reputable Hobby Breeder | Reputable Experienced Breeder |
Motive for Breeding |
To supply pet stores and make a profit. | To supply pet stores and make a profit. | To produce puppies for profit, or so their kids can experience “the miracle of birth,” or to have another just like one of the parents. | To better the breed and continue a well thought-out plan. | To perfect a specific type to leave a legacy. |
Breed Club Member |
Hardly ever. | Has a network of business contacts instead. | May masquerade as a member. | Yes and extremely dedicated. | Yes and extremely dedicated. |
Mentor |
Not interested in breed improvement. | Does not specialize in specific breed. | Works independently, lacks guidance. | Invites knowledge. | Is a mentor, writes books or articles, conducts seminars. |
Breeds to the Standard |
Uses any available stock. | Focuses on general appearance. | May not even be aware of the breed standard. Breeds to any convenient dog. | Strives towards the ideal. | Often helps to define it. |
Activity in dog related activities (shows/trials, rescue) |
Does not need to promote establishment; sells to brokers, pet shops, etc. | Does not need to promote establishment; sells to brokers, pet shops, etc. | Often rescues only to attain more stock. Rarely attends shows or trials. | Shows and trials to objectively test breeding stock. | Often judges, provides seminars, writes articles, and willingly mentors serious Hobby Breeders. |
Knowledge of the Breed |
Often pretends to know some. | Claims that it’s not important. | May share false or incomplete information. | Studies continuously. | Impacts the breed for many decades with knowledge of dogs over many generations. |
Sells pets with spay/neuter contract and tries to stay in touch with new owners |
Often issues papers via generic “registries” with less stringent requirements. |
All pups sold have full breeding rights. | May charge more for “breeding” papers. | Yes, and diligently follows up on progeny. | Always differentiates breed/pet quality and insists on frequent updates. |
Keeps up with health and temperament issues affecting the breeding and provides in-depth guarantees |
No need to; mostly supplies brokers and pet shops. |
Meets minimum standards as required by state law. | May refuse to acknowledge most problems. Considers shows and trials as too “political.” | Goes above and beyond standard requirement. | Maintains a solid support system – accepts full responsibility for every puppy produced. |
Performs health testing for all breeding stock for genetic diseases affecting the particular breed. |
No interest, may offer papers as proof of quality. Papers alone are not proof of quality. |
No interest. May provide undocumented paperwork for appearances sake. | Is unfamiliar with health testing usually statements of good health are stated to impress consumers. | Intensive testing always a priority. | Often initiates club sponsored seminars and clinics. Intensive testing always a priority. |
Maintains records on all dogs in gene pool including progeny. |
Often supplies brokers and pet shops, records unavailable. | Dogs and puppies are often auctioned off in lots, records unavailable. | Focuses mostly on current dogs, no records or knowledge of genes. | Attempts to continuously track every puppy produced. | Bases entire breeding program on extensive gene pool data. |
Clean environment always maintained |
Minimum standards vary greatly in cleanliness. | Minimum standards maintained for state inspections. | Conditions may vary greatly depending on available income, usually makeshift accommodations. | Usually “home raised with love” and well cared for. Clean, healthy and mentally stimulating environment. | Clean, healthy and mentally stimulating environment. |
Expected longevity with any particular breed |
Will continue as long as the sales are coming. |
Depends on popularity of specific breeds. | Unrealistic expectations – easily disillusioned. | On a mission-plans to stay for the long haul. | Involved with the breed / breeding for decades – makes a lifetime commitment. |
Health guarantee provided |
No, it cuts into profits. |
7-day guarantee mandated by state. | No health guarantee beyond proof of first set of vaccines, if that. Not qualified to give advice if a problem arises. | Offers written guarantee and is available to answer questions to new owners. Good knowledge of history in dogs. | Extensive knowledge of health history, offers replacements to owners of genetically affected dogs. |
Ability to meet the parents of the litter |
If available, may be in poor physical condition. |
If available, dogs are not used to contact with people. | May or may not be well loved and cared for companions, often unwilling to show entire litter or parents to buyer. | Shows friendly mother and entire litter in clean environment; stud dog too, if in residence. Helps buyer choose appropriate puppy. | Can explain how breeding was planned to emphasize specific qualities and can speak at length about how puppies compare. |
What you can expect after purchase |
Nothing, may not be able to contact at all. |
No concern for dog after sale is final. | Tells you if you can’t keep it to take it to the pound or shelter. | Available for questions, and wants to keep in touch. Will take back dog or puppy at any time. | After purchase will help with training and grooming, available for all questions and knows the answers. |
Price |
Lowest end of range. | Priced according to market, but is marked up from original source for profit. | Mid-range to move puppies quickly. | High end of mid-range. | Price will not reflect all that is invested. |
Conscientious Breeders
Strive in each and every breeding to achieve the highest quality possible relative to the breed standard for conformation, trainability and temperament, in order to maintain our breed’s characteristics.
Use only physically sound, mature dogs of stable temperament for breeding. These characteristics are rarely, if ever, determined before the age of two for females.
Continue to educate themselves regarding genetic diseases pertinent to the breed including, hip and elbow dysplasia. Documentation of hip and elbow screenings should be available to prospective puppy buyers. It should consist of an OFA, OVC or Penn Hip report and/or a letter of evaluation from a board certified Veterinary Radiologist.
Apply the same high standards to outside bitches sent to their stud dogs as they apply to their own breeding stock.
Match each puppy’s personality as carefully as possible with a compatible buyer/family. Temperament testing of a litter before puppies are offered for sale is encouraged.
Take appropriate steps to have each puppy examined by a licensed veterinarian for general health prior to placement. Each puppy should be vaccinated and de-wormed by a veterinarian.
Encourage buyers of pet puppies to spay/neuter. Methods should include written spay/neuter contracts, limited registration and/or spay/neuter rebates.
Endeavor to gain personal knowledge of the temperament and health of every dog they breed, or to which they breed, in order to gather information on which to base future breeding decisions. They share this information fully and honestly with other breeders and with prospective buyers.
Sell breeding prospects to knowledgeable, ethical and experienced persons or are willing to help educate and guide novices. They should at any time accept the return of any dog/bitch their breeding program produces and they should always help when relocation is needed.
Do not engage in misleading or untrue advertising and do not use GSDCA membership as a marketing tool.
Do not sell, supply, donate or surrender any dog for which they are responsible to a pet shop, catalogue house, wholesale dealer in dogs, Humane Society or to a laboratory. They should have reasonable assurance that each individual receiving a dog will provide a home with appropriate shelter, restraint, control and responsible care.
Encourage puppy buyers to go to puppy obedience classes to help their puppies to become better canine good citizens. The achievement of a Canine Good Citizen certificate should be encouraged.
Unethical Breeders
When you talk to breeders about their puppies, there are a few warning signs that you may be dealing with a disreputable, unethical, or irresponsible breeder:
The “breeder” lacks knowledge about the breed and the Breed Standard
The “breeder” shows ignorance or denial of genetic defects in the breed.
The “breeder” has no involvement in dog sports
The “breeder” doesn’t let you observe the puppies or adults. (Since homeowners insurance and local laws vary greatly, a refusal to let you visit the kennels may not, in and of itself, be a bad sign. You should ask for and receive a satisfactory explanation.)
The “breeder” doesn’t ask any questions about you, your family, lifestyle or accommodations for a dog.
The “breeder” has no documentation of health testing and cannot provide a pedigree.
The puppies are not social or look sickly.
How to read those ads. A few more things to look out for.
“Champion lines” – look instead for Champion sired or Champion parents. “Champion Lines” means there is one dog somewhere in that puppy’s family that was a champion – it says nothing about the quality of the parents at all. Anyone can buy a puppy from a champion, but it does not mean that they have any other interest in the breed but to bank on the name and make money. The puppy may have been sold as a pet and an unethical person did not have the dog spayed/neutered and is still breeding puppies. Having a Champion in a pedigree is like having a billionaire relative. It doesn’t mean that you are rich unless each generation from that relative has passed down the money.
“AKC Registration” or “AKC Papers” – So what? AKC registration does not guarantee quality. AKC papers are much like the title of a car; papers are issued to the junked Chevy on blocks in your yard just as easily as they are on a brand new, shiny Jaguar. AKC does not control breeding, approve litters, or guarantee temperaments. Unfortunately, in the hands of some unethical breeders, it doesn’t even guarantee that the dog is purebred. AKC Registration is automatic if you buy from a reputable breeder – they will provide all necessary paperwork when you buy a puppy. It is not a selling point, and shouldn’t be treated as one.
Be wary of other “registrations,” as well. There are several groups that are registering dogs, even mixed breeds, for a fee.This registration means nothing, and is of no value to you.
“Extra-Big”, “Extra-Small” – breeders trying for extremes are rarely raising healthy dogs, and any ad that has to stress the size and weight of the dog to sell the puppies is suspect. Usually, these dogs are outside of the breed’s norm and are subject to their own medical problems due to excessive size or lack of it.
“Rare” – Why? Are there too many defects for the animal to be bred? What kind of problems does this “rare” color or size entail? Medical? Behavioral? Shop with care.
“See Both Parents” – This is not usually a good thing. Rarely will a good breeder have the luck to own both dogs for the perfect litter. If you can see both parents, it may mean that the person had two dogs in the backyard and didn’t supervise them carefully enough, resulting in puppies, or that they bred to a dog of convenience they already owned.
There are some good and very reasonable reasons to have both parents on site. However, you need to ask the right questions and understand why this is true. If the breeder doesn’t have an answer, or the answer is something like, “Well, they were just such cute dogs . . .” or “We bought another dog so we could have puppies,” you need to evaluate whether this breeder is doing the right thing. They might be, they might not. It’s up to you to ask.
“Must go now!” – Why? Are they too big to be cute anymore? Need more money? Is there a problem? Usually because there are more on the way. Be very wary of this one.
Will a Breeder Ask Me Questions?
Conscientious breeders want the best available home for their puppies. Expect them to ask you questions about fenced yards, and the type of work that you and/or your spouse do for a living. This determines the amount of time you will have available for your new addition. There are very important items that should be supplied by the breeder.
Breeders will typically give you the following items:
A signed pedigree
A current Health Record; including de-wormings and vaccinations.
American Kennel Club registration papers or application
Sales contract. The type of contract varies and must be mutually agreeable to the breeder and buyer. Much depends on what you expect from the puppy (show, pet, or performance).
Feeding schedule including the type and amount of food.
Copy of OFA certification of sire and dam, if available.